Living with a Suzuki Swift | Author. Cold winter mornings suck. It takes 1. 5 minutes to warm up the snow- covered car, which means you’re halfway to work before you can feel your hands again. A Viper 4. 10. 3V remote starter and an Xpress. Kit immobiliser bypass. Not anymore! Even though it’s still summer, I thought it would be a great time to install a remote starter in the Suzuki Swift for the coming cold months. ![]() So, I bought a Viper 4. I created these basic instructions on how to install a remote starter in your own Suzuki Swift if you also get sick of waiting for you car’s inside temperature to be comfortable during cold winters (or hot summers for that matter). Turn the wheel to access each screw. Start by pulling off the panel below the steering wheel, and lowering the steering wheel down so you’ll have access to all the screws. Start by removing the two front facing screws with a Phillips- head screwdriver. This is the third and final screw to remove. Then remove the single screw which goes in from underneath the plastic steering wheel case. Стоматолог Киев Добро пожаловать всем, кто проявляет заботу о здоровье своих зубов и кому. I always wanted BMW OEM Navigation in my car. Since I bought my car preconfigured off the lot, I wasn’t able to choose the navigation option. After you have removed those three screws, the plastic case will seperate (with a little force) and you can put it aside. View from below, looking up. It’s been a great car, and I’ve learned a lot about car maintenance and repair (and the effects of Slovakia’s roads) over the last few seasons. Remove this metal shield by undoing two screws. Once you’ve removed the metal shield (shown above), you can start to make sense out of which wires you need to connect. Where to start? Don’t worry, it’s much easier than you might think. Don’t be scared by all the wires – most of them won’t be used! In fact, if you’re only using the basic remote start function (and not all the many options that come with the remote start system) then you’ll only be connecting about 9 wires in total. I recommend using a Viper remote start system above other brands. I had a cheap Bulldog brand remote starter in an older car, and it was dreadful. It worked for only 8 weeks before malfunctioning and starting my car by itself in the middle of the night (then not shutting down unless I got out of bed and disconnected it inside the car). I learned my lesson and paid a bit more for a better brand. I really, really recommend you do the same. This is the main cable that does all the work. Now, to start the installation, let’s connect the important cables first. Locate the main ignition cable cluster underneath the steering column (pictured above) and unplug it. The ignition wires are the most important in any remote starter connection. At this point you should follow your instruction manual which comes with your remote starter to figure out which wires to connect. However, I can tell you what each wire in the harness does (listed in order, facing the plug): YELLOW: Ignition output (+1. GREEN & WHITE: Starter output (+1. WHITE & BLUE: Main input (constant +1. WHITE: Accessories out (+1. ACC” position – low current)BLUE: Accessories out (+1. ACC” position – low current)GREEN: Ignition out (+1. Some of these cables are high current, and at least one of them will be “live”, so be careful. Disconnect one of the battery terminals to ensure you don’t short- circuit one of those high- current wires. Seriously, just take 2 minutes and do it. You don’t want your Suzuki Swift to go down in flames. Just imagine the call to the insurance company afterwards, or the look on your girlfriend/boyfriend/husband/wife/landlord’s face. Always solder your connections. Any other wire- joining method is asking for trouble. Follow your instructions to see exactly where each wire on your particular remote start system needs to be connected. In my case the system needed two high- power inputs ( 2 x red wires) but the Suzuki Swift only has one (1 x white & blue) so I connected the three together which works well. You’ll probably find that you’ll need to do the same. This little wire is your parking lights wire. Tap into it. Your remote starter will need a connection to your parking lights, so the lights will flash when you start the car, use the system to unlock the doors, go into Valet Mode, or even turn on the rear window demister (yeah, it even has that option!). I won’t be using any of those which makes this one a really quick and easy install. Anyway, tap in the Light Flash Output to this little orange & yellow cable. Make sure you thoroughly wrap your soldered connections with electrical tape afterwards. Looking up: last of all is the brake light connection. The last wire the remote starter needs to tap into is the brake light wire. This means that you can cancel the remote starter simply by pressing the brake. This also means that if someone manages to hotwire, or steal your car while it’s remotely running, as soon as they press the brake the engine will cut off. Locate which wire becomes alive when you press the brake pedal, then disconnect the plug circled above and tap into it. The location and length of this wire makes tapping into it really tricky, but with a little patience and a lot of swearing and grunting, you’ll get there. Please don’t skip this step. It’s not worth the risk. Wires? What wires? As you’ve probably figured out, I don’t like wires showing in my car. This means I have to go to some extraordinary lengths to hide cables, but the result is always pleasing. For example, in the above photo I put the aerial inside the plastic cover above the instrument cluster. Looks much tidier than being stuck on the windscreen. It also makes the car appear as boring as possible – something useful for deterring thieves. This is the immobiliser unit. Now it’s time to install the immobiliser bypass unit. This taps into the immobiliser transponder pictured above. It’s actually really simple in how your immobiliser works. Your key has a little microchip in it, and when the chip gets close enough to the sensor (the round thing in the picture above), the sensor tells your car’s computer that it can start. If you (or a thief) try to start the car when the sensor doesn’t sense the microchip nearby, your immobiliser dashboard light will flash, and your engine will just turn over and over but never actually start. This is an immobilizer bypass device. The problem with immobilisers and remote starters is that they only let people with the key start the car. This means remote starters won’t work. So, you’ll need to install one of these things pictured above, called an immobiliser bypass unit. The idea is really simple. You connect an immobiliser bypass unit to your car by tapping it into the wires on your immobiliser transponder (the round thing). Then you start your car normally with the key. The unit then learns the “I can see the microchip; everything’s good” signal that your car says when it detects a key with a microchip nearby. Once the unit has learned the signal, you don’t need the key with the microchip to remote start the car anymore! This is because the bypass unit creates an artificial “I can see the microchip; everything’s good” signal and sends it down the cable. Now the car has been tricked into thinking it can see the microchip. Update: I’m having issues with this Xpress. Kit immobiliser bypass unit and am currently in correspondence with Xpress. Kit. Stay tuned. This is what’s called the “nest” stage. At this point there are wires everywhere, but don’t panic. Most of them are not used, so just wrap them up and tape them up to make it tidy. Clean and tidy. Once your cables are organised, make sure they won’t get caught on the steering column or pedals, then secure the remote start unit and immobiliser bypass under the dashboard. That’s it! It’s not complicated, and even someone with only a basic understanding of car electrics could undertake it. However, for safety’s sake, I recommend getting someone with an understanding of low voltage electrics and someone with soldering experience to help you out. You can’t put a price on peace of mind. The next step is to create an additional safety system so that the car won’t start when it’s in gear. I did this with the help of two magnetic switches which I bought on e. Bay, and I’ve included instructions below. Getting access to the gear shifter is a piece of cake. First of all, pry out the plastic panel which surrounds the gear stick. A flat- head screwdriver will work. Unclip the gear stick gaiter from underneath. Next, unclip the gaiter from underneath. It comes out quite easily. Unfortunately the surface around the gear stick isn’t flat, so we’ll need to fix that. Now you can see the workings of the gear stick. On the surface, surrounding the gear stick, I needed to install the magnetic switches.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. Archives
November 2017
Categories |